A
Cheesy Essay
Cheese
is something that we all tend to take for granted in modern American society.
It is not really considered food in and of itself, but more as a condiment. It
is perceived as something that goes “on” food in order to enhance it, rather
than its own dish. There certainly exists the knowledge that this is not true
everywhere, and that cheese making has a rich history, but these are things
that many people would ascribe more to the past or to distant places, like
Europe (and especially France). Yet cheese making is still alive and well, even
in America, and even in its traditional, artisanal, hand-made form.
The
idea that American-made cheese is tasteless, bland, and inherently less worthy
of consideration than other varieties stems largely from the widespread
industrialization of its production since mass production became viable. (Paxton) Many people envision
something more akin to Kraft singles than a personalized, artfully made product
worthy of connoisseurship when it comes to American cheese, and for the most
part, they are correct. Cheese is a form of food that does not accommodate well
to one-size-fits-all manufacturing techniques: decisions as to how long each
phase of the process should take for each individual batch have no set
standard. The development of good cheese requires not exacting specification,
but the delicate touch of an experienced cheese maker. Many would say that the
practice exceeds that of craftsmanship and is closer to an art. (Paxton) Understandably, this
does not mesh well with the emergent method of food production in America, which
focuses above all on the efficient production of a reliable product in as large
amounts as is possible. This mentality gives rises to the plastic-like,
shrink-wrapped types of cheese that we more readily associate with America.
In
contrast, European cheeses have the rightful connotation of being gourmet
creations, never quite the same from producer to producer. Cheese-makers in
Europe often have the luxury of direct access to dairy farms that have
surrounded their workshops for centuries, allowing them to create cheese from
unpasteurized, grass-fed cattle milk before it begins to spoil. (Haas) In Switzerland, for
example, while the government dictates and provides the strains of bacteria
that cheese makers must use in order to ensure the safety of the resultant
product, many techniques that might be used to preserve the shelf life of the
milk before it is used are not allowed, forcing the cheese to be made from
local milk. (Haas) The cheese maker is
given the freedom to decide with each individual batch how long to soak the
curds, how long to age each cheese, how many holes he allows to form as a
result of residual bacteria, and so forth. This has the effect of keeping the
cheese of each operation distinct from others, each having its own local flavor
without compromising the safety of the cheese. In addition, the bacteria
provided by the government for each cheese has a particular genetic marker,
which allows for the detection of copycat cheeses and imitations upon testing.
Only genuine, certified cheeses make the grade in the exacting European market.
While
this specific style of production may not be an option in American cheeses, with
dairy farms being far enough removed from cheese makers to require
pasteurization, the idea of artisan craftsmanship is still not as foreign to
America as the current market might suggest. Many cheeses have in fact been
developed here, cheese making techniques having been passed down and adapted
from the original European techniques of settlers and immigrants. Original
American cheeses include Jack cheese, Colby cheese, Colby-jack cheese, Monterey
jack cheese, Pepper jack cheese, and yes, American cheese. While this
innovation in cheese making may have died down following the industrialization
of the market, artisan cheese makers have rediscovered older means of
production via associations with European cheese makers in an increasingly
global economy. While the techniques used in traditional European cheese making
provide a starting point, American cheese makers are less restricted by the
onus of exactly recreating the traditional cheeses of their forefathers. As
such, they have much more room in which to experiment and innovate with new
flavors and new types of cheeses. Traditions may provide helpful pointers, but
they are not the objective in and of themselves, as is the case in many European
operations. With the rising backlash against factory produced food in America,
in favor of “green”, “sustainable”, or “organic” methods, and the vast
difference in quality from mass-produced cheeses, there may be room in the
coming generation for large growth in the American demand for artisan cheese. I
certainly intend to sample some.
Works Cited
BIBLIOGRAPHY Haas, Scott. "The Cultural Diversity of
Cheese." Gastronomica: The Journal of Food and Culture (2011):
112-115.
Paxton, Heather. "Cheese Cultures: Transforming
American Tastes and Traditions." Gastronomica: The Journal of Food and
Culture (2010): 35-47.
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